Seulement manger, marcher et pipi

Forget "Eat, Pray, Love" and try "Eat, Walk, ...pipi". That is what the French friend that I met on the Camino says it is all about and as I have found out in 40 days of walking every single day, come rain or shine, perfect days and shin splints, it is perfectly true.

When you are at home, or work, or any usual situation, eating is no big deal. If you are hungry, you find some food and you eat, why would it be any different on the Camino? Well, it is not quite as easy as that, especially on the Via de la Plata. Restaurants, bars and shops in the little towns we walked through, don't open for the convenience of pilgrims, but all have their own age-old rhythm that suit the owner and the townsfolk. The towns are also quite far apart on some stretches so planning whether to carry food and what to take occupies a great deal of time.
Being vegetarian adds a further challenge as one can't simply take for granted that anything that states "vegetables only" means vegetables only, as it seems that tuna is classified as a vegetable in Spain. Thank goodness for one of Spain's national dishes, the tortilla patata (potato omelette), although there were times when I couldn' face another one of these delicacies. Fortunately most of the little shops had good fruit and lovely cheese so no need to go hungry. And then I discovered a sweet that is a favourite in Spain at Christmas time - turron blando - a blend of finely chopped almonds, honey and sugar. Instant energy, and I had my lunch sorted out for the last two weeks of my walk.

No surprises that walking is important - some of us do the Camino specifically to be able to walk for days on end. But on the Camino walking is never simply walking. I found out too late that it really is better to do a few stretches and warm up exercises before starting to walk in the morning. Not doing that resulted in me having to walk most of the time with really painful shin splints that never had a chance to really heal as I never stopped for a day. The painful legs however, brought me the gift of walking much more slowly than my normal pace and in the end I loved the almost dreamy quality of my walks through the misty and at times wet, Galician oak forests where surely there have to be a few druids collecting plants for magical potions.

The last subject was.... well, interesting at times. A fair bit of the way is walked along the carretera, dodging cars and trucks that seem to be aimed straight at you. Some of it even early morning in the dark with a little headlamp - hoping that the tiny speck of light is enough indication to the fast drivers that there is a different life form out there. To get back to the delicate subject though - where do you go? When there is no cover, passing motorists all the time and you HAVE to, well ... go. During one particularly long walk along the road, the only solution was the cover of a rain poncho. Otherwise pray for a lull in the traffic - and be quick;-)

Albergues on the Via de la Plata

Tomorrow it will be exactly a month since I started walking the Via de la Plata in Seville and I have experienced the best and the worst (I hope) of albergues and casas rurale on the way.

It is difficult to decide which of the albergues were the best, as each of the good, well-run ones have a unique and special touch that make them stand out.

After the bad to indifferent albergues of the first few days, Monesterio was such a delight, clean and with everything a peregrino could possibly need. My next favourite was the residencia for handicapped men in Alcuescar. It could be that the reason for my delight was the fact that I walked 38 km that day completely on my own and was so delighted to have my own little "cell", the first privacy in almost 2 weeks.

By far the most modern and impressive building must be the beautiful albergue at Embalse de Alcantara, where the hospitalerio went out of his way to ensure our comfort. The other two well-designed buildings that come to mind, are the albergues at Banos de Montemayor and at Zamora. I also thought that the two hospitalerios at Zamora went far beyond the call of duty to make our stay memorable, waking us up with piped music, cooking an amazing meal and sending us off with a blessing.

An older building, but nevertheless unforgettable albergue, is the one at Fuenterroble, also run by volunteer hospitalerios. There were grapes on the table and a fire in the fireplace, giving a welcome to tired and footsore pilgrims.

Some of the privately run albergues that I will remember fondly, are in San Pedro de Rozados where I as a vegetarian had the best meal of the trip thus far, and the one where we are staying tonight in Requejo de Sanabria.

I would not want to embarass those refugios that are less than appetising, by naming them, but want to say to hospitalerios that peregrinos will gladly pay a bit extra, as long as the albergue is, at the very least, clean.

Sunday afternoon in Casa Perin, Villafranca de los Barros

What a week we've had! We have walked 176.5 km in some of the hottest weather ever, slept in seven albergues/hostals, met loads of people of several nationalities, and managed to somehow make ourselves be understood in Spanish and French. Don't remember how often I've had to say 'losciento' (Spanish for I'm sorry), but needed to learn that quickly in case we offended anyone :-)

Up to now, walking the Via de la Plata has been humbling, amusing, enriching and sometimes very tiring. Humbling, because almost everyone has been exceptionally helpful despite our distinctly glaring lack of command of the most basic Spanish. Everywhere we go we hear the by now familiar "Hola! Buen Camino!"

Amusing on many levels, particularly the misunderstandings at every opportunity, amongst them being handed a beer when I was convinced that I had asked for a glass of red wine. Thankfully one of the Canadian ladies we met speaks Spanish quite well, so we are grateful when she is around to help.

Enriching because of the chance to meet truly amazing people who let me have a glimpse into their interesting, but at times trying lives. And because I have a chance to see and experience another culture at a level that is not possible as an ordinary tourist.

For anyone wanting to walk the Via de la Plata, the only advice I have is "do it", but come without expectations and let the Camino take you where you need to go.

Forgive me Father, for I have sinned

Our 1st stage on the Via de la Plata started today with 10 o'clock mass in the beautiful Cathedral in Sevilla. Sitting there with the opulence of the Catholic church in such evidence I could not help but think that the simple carpenter from Jerusalem would be astounded at the riches amassed in His name, and the pomp and ceremony created to honour Him. At the same time, it was touching to sit quietly, listening to the soul lifting organ music filling the vastness of the building.

The result of this, was that we started off late (ok, 11h30 is very late) and trudged along in searing heat for 22 km., stopping off in Santiponce in Italica, naively thinking that 2 peregrinas would be allowed to go and have a picnic in the shade. Sadly, that was not to happen, as Italica (an archaeological dig of an ancient Roman city) closes at 15h00 on Sundays and what is more, .nl picnics allowed! So, as we were about to bite into our delicious sandwiches, the security guard rocked up and chased us away, hence the title of this post, because I think the security guard is overdue for a confession:-) We relocated to the only shady spot around - the bus stop - and had our sandwiches in the shade of the trees next to the shelter.

Left Santiponce at around16h00 and arrived in Guillena 2 and a half hours later after a grueling 11 km walk with no shade or shelter of any description. Now safely ensconced in the refugio, showered, clothes washed and well fed it somehow does not seem quite as bad, but there was a stage when I felt ready to curl up in the olive grove and stay there till morning.

Feet ok, wish I had brought my other shoes instead of the Salomons because I feel all the time as if my feet are about to develop a hotspot. Tomorrow I am going to send half my clothes and the blankey onward post restante and will pick them up in 2 weeks time:-)

Looking forward to the short day tomorrow.

Day Zero!

So the day has dawned! I am flying to Madrid this evening out of O.R. Tambo airport, Johannesburg. My bag is packed and feels light as a feather - even took a little walk last night carrying the pack and it feels great. I don't know what it weighs, but it is lighter than when I practised. Confraternity of St James badge sewn on (badly I'm afraid, as sewing is not my strongest point). Hope I'm not leaving anything crucial behind! My first-aid box will make a doctor proud - I figured that if I take something for every condition known to mankind, I'll be healthy;-)

Did opt to leave the sleeping bag. It is heavy, and there is an opportunity for me to get it when my friend joins me October. Instead taking a liner and a light blanket from when South Africa hosted the 2010 Soccer World Cup, so I'll be reminded every day of a time when the South African nation pulled together in unity for once.

Still in two minds as to whether I should take my other pair of shoes. And whether I should take my good camera as well as the little one I bought especially for this trip. I miss the solidity of my trusted Canon, but it is heavy and bulky and I can only take one lens anyway. All the choices!

Most importantly, I feel like a traitor leaving behind husband Louis, my animal children and sister and mother. And all the doubts - will I make it? Will Louis eat enough? Will I find my "way"? Ad infinitum and nauseam.



Louis and dog "children"



Zack waiting for us to decide which way to go

Unsettled.........

I don't know whether it is the case with everyone before they set off on some daunting "adventure", but I've been feeling completely unsettled for the last month and feel as if nothing but the preparations for the Camino matters. I do my daily chores mechanically and almost resent any request that does not have anything to do with the Camino. And guess what, that is most of the time as there are only two of us going - friend Janine and I. My poor long-suffering husband. I bet he can't wait for me to be on my way so he doesn't have to listen to camino-camino all the time.

Today, exactly a week before we fly to Madrid, is particularly bad. And it is raining cats and dogs so the road to our farm is muddy and the roof has sprung a leak so we've had to mop up intermittently throughout the day. When I'm not mopping up, I'm reading other Camino blogs and forum entries but am too lethargic to even respond. And it is raining way too hard for me to even go on a good walk. In any case I haven't bought my rain gear yet. The waiting simply feels way too long now for an impatient person;-)

I did do at least one thing today (of all rainy wet days) - washed my "camino clothes" so that I can pack them. Of course they're still wet and I will probably have to wait another day before hanging them out again. It was liberating though to imagine that in a short few days I will carry so few belongings on my back for nearly seven weeks. So little hassle and everything you need right there.



My "Camino" wardrobe



Fitness creeps up on me and I go shopping

Early morning I took my backpack, gave the dogs the slip and went on a 10km walk by myself. Once in my stride, I realised that even though I could have trained harder and more consistently, fitness found me. The shoes are a dream and I'm hardly aware of wearing them.
After the walk, an urge to go shopping beset me. This is the kind of urge that I seldom experience as I really do not enjoy shopping. Today's shopping was great though as I found most of the things on my Camino list, leaving me with almost no last minute shopping - and most items were discounted as I found them at a closing sale of a friends shop. Two big items to still get are a rain poncho and a small camera.
My excitement is building - only nine more sleeps!

Oh my Sole......!

Yesterday Janine and I did a reality check in preparation for the Camino and set off walking on a mountain bike route that our Conservancy hosts every year. We thought that we might try to walk the entire 39 km route with fully laden backpacks and new shoes!

We managed between 25 and 30 km despite getting lost, bundu-bashing and dithering for a long time at the start of the route as we couldn't find the single track path that marks the starting point for the mountain bikers. Technology also failed us as my fancy little tablet couldnt pick up the route from Google maps, so we had to make do with a faint A4 paper map. My biggest reality check was that I should've joined Girl Guides as a girl, because had I done that it might have been easier to find the route;-) Luckily Janine "found" us on the map and after a while we managed to move in roughly the right direction.

Had lunch of peanut butter sandwiches, dried fruit and nuts sitting on the burnt grass - too exhausted to care about new shoes, clean clothes or anything else - and we weren't even halfway yet.

After lunch we were joined by a neighbour who knows the obscure tracks and we managed well. Had tea at another neighbour and finally arrived back at the starting point 10 hours after starting out - exhausted but quite happy that we managed so well over rough terrain on a hot day.

Shoes? Or boots?

Have been avoiding this day, but finally had to get the shoes that will carry me across Spain. The salesman tried very hard to get me to buy boots, but try as I like, they feel uncomfortable. Even just walking around the shop, the boots felt restrictive and stiff, so I ended up buying a lovely pair of Salomon's and some new socks. Not convinced about wearing two pairs of socks as the salesman recommended, but will give it a try on the 38 km training walk I'm planning for this Sunday. 

I also wanted to purchase hiking gear, but really did not like the texture of the technically advanced and expensive trousers, so I guess I will have to go on another shopping expedition before my trip starts. The choices are so many and I am so uncertain - normally when I go hiking I wear my oldest, most comfortable clothes that really look as though they belong on the rubbish heap. But I guess I can't do that in a strange country, or can I? Did get something decent and lighweight to sleep in though, so I can tick three things off my list. 

THE shoes - if only they knew what adventures await them

On my training walk

Just me and my shadow

What a lovely and tranquil training walk I had this morning. Did 10km with an 8kg backpack and it took me just under two hours. If I feel this strong every day of my Camino, I know that it will be a cinch. Of course things don't always work the way we want them to, so my experiences will probably range between fabulous like today, or wipeout like two days ago when I walked only seven km in the morning and was so tired afterwards that I slept most of the afternoon.



I'm lucky to live in a most beautiful setting and took some photographs today - you can see that I have no reason to shy away from training;-)





I'm not alone after all



The View



Visa Application

Training falling behind schedule:'( but did do my visa application today. The days leading to the visa application interview, were really stressful as there was a long checklist to work through. Having left the corporate world three years ago, I had forgotten how to manage projects, so instead of systematically getting everything ready, I scurried frantically.
Of course, I left the  most crucial thing, the photos, for last. As "luck" would have it, there were no photographers anywhere in the rather vast shopping mall opposite the visa application centre. Forty minutes later I decided that it is more important to be on time for my visa application interview so almost ran the 500 metres to the building. As I topped my rather sweaty brow, I saw that there was a photographer right there. Had the photos taken (have to admit that I could make the "wanted, dead or alive" list) and got to the interview with time to spare.
Whilst waiting I thought of thousands of bizarre reasons why my visa would be refused and thought of all the counter-arguments I would use. But when my turn came, I looked up and behind the interviewer was a TV playing a video of the Camino and at that moment showing the Cathedral in Santiago. Suddenly I felt cool, calm and collected. All documents were there, apparently there was enough money in my bank account and I wasn't arrested for looking like a criminal on my passport photo.
Indulged in a freezochino out of sheer relief B-) Tomorrow it's time to get back on track with training.

But Why?

This is the astonished response I hear most often when people hear about my ambition to walk the Camino, followed by remarks such as "you can borrow my car" or "what's wrong with your car?" I never know what to answer them, because I love walking so much that I can't imagine anyone NOT wanting to walk a thousand kilmetres, so my standard very cliched answer is "But why not?" or "Because I can". Not very inspirational I'm afraid;-)

Seriously though, why do people do a pilgrimage? What is it that causes you to forsake family, friends and your own comfortable environment to walk such a long distance, enduring all manner of weather conditions, bed bugs, lack of privacy, possibly pain and untold other hardships to get from point A to point X in the most difficult way.

We humans have probably undertaken pilgrimages in one form or the other since the day we became conscious of ourselves as "spiritual" beings. And despite the advances in transportation technology, we still think that walking constitutes the only "real" pilgrimage.

My own reason for walking the Camino is that I love walking and want to walk a thousand kilometres at a stretch whilst I still have the strength to do it. Having "retired" a few years ago, I also feel ready for a period of contemplation where I have only myself to worry about. Finally in some way it feels "right" to follow in the footsteps of so many who have walked this route before me - confirming my spiritual bond with them and those who will come after me.

In any case - buen camino, whether you're walking "The Camino" or walking your life path.

Training progress

Today I decided to have my walk at noon to see how I cope with the heat. In Gauteng, South Africa where I live it is not quite spring yet, but the days can get pretty warm and today was no exception with a temperature of 25 deg. C at noon. I walked ten kms with an 8 kg backpack and did fine, but did make some notes for reference on my camino:

• Use sunblock!!!
• Take enough water - I ran out of water and felt very hot and thirsty the last half hour of my walk
• Layer your clothes - my clothes were too warm and I was hotter and sweatier than I needed to be

My recovery was quite speedy and I managed to go about my life just fine in the afternoon. And this evening I was especially pleased that I am in training as I could enjoy my favourite sweet - halva - without the slightest pang of guilt;-)

Preparation gets underway again...

After two days of not doing much in the way of preparation, everything got underway again today and a number of things could be ticked off my list. But of course, as these things go a number were added as well.

Most importantly all the banking stuff was sorted out, both for the visa application process and to ensure that I have access to my bank account whilst in Spain. In this process I received a bonus - my bank charges were reduced to next to nothing, simply because I'm over 55. I guess there has to be some advantages to getting older.

The other important although not crucial item ticked off my list is a new toy - a tablet for connectivity, books, learning Spanish while walking etc.

What was added to my list, was a cute little portable solar charger, the size of a small cellphone to keep my tablet in working order. Also a new hat and gloves for the walking poles, as it became very clear during my training sessions that my hat with its wide brim will be very irritating and the gloves I have will cause blisters on my hands if I had to use them constantly. So now I have a new mission;-) 

The other important thing I achieved today was to take my camera in for a service, as its sensor is really dirty and so are the lenses. I'm a bit worried thought that the camera will be too heavy, so have to consider whether I want to do photography or have a buen camino and take happy snaps.

No activity that directly affects my Camino

The plan was to take my mother and her eldest sister to visit their younger sister today. And so, instead of packing my backpack and tackling another strenuous walk, I packed my car full of old ladies and drove the 100 km or so to my aunt. So pleased I did as it was great to connect with three of the souls who have influenced me most in my life:

My Mother - the one who gave me the gift of life
Aunt Sophie - at 90 an inspirational person who does not consider her own mortality a remote possibility. She stil writes poetry and paints up a storm even though she is unable to walk.
Aunt Het - My mother's younger sister and our second mother

I salute you and I walk with you.

My mother and her sisters: Aunt Soph, My Mom, Aunt Het

Furious planning

It is exactly a month before I fly to Madrid to start the Via de la Plata from Seville to Santiago and then on to Finisterre. I have not done a lot of planning, or training for that matter, but suddenly today it dawned on me that I'd better get my act together if I want a buen camino.

So, this morning I set off with my backpack and walking poles on an eight km walk. My backpack is not new, but has served me well and still gives me wings every time I use it. I don't even know what size it is (now that is shabby for a hiker), but it feels like I was born with it on my back. My walk was great and the new poles are fantastic. Not quite sure how I managed without them. The pack and contents weighed about 8kg and I hardly felt the weight.

I also realised with a shock that the visa requirements are quite onerous and I'd better make sure that I get it right first time. Made appointment (check!)

Wanted to book hotels in Madrid and Seville, airport transfer and train from Madrid to Seville through the travel agent that did my airline ticket and travel insurance, only to find that it is much much cheaper doing it online! Fellow peregrina and friend, Janine and I will finalise this on Friday (another check!)

Washed sleeping bag and inner (another check!)

Starting to feel as though I will really get to Spain;-)_